What are peptides?

A polypeptide is a compound made of amino acids that are contracted. It is linked to each other by -CH-NH formed by the removal of water from one molecule by -NH of one amino acid molecule and -COOH of another amino acid. According to the number of amino acids, they are called dipeptide, tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, etc. Its molecular size is intermediate among small molecule compounds. (MW<500) and protein (MW> 10 000) have low molecular weight, easy absorption, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and other biological activities.

Developmental history of peptides

1922: The first human use of insulin I extracted from animal pancreas to treat type diabetes. 1954: American biochemist Dr. Vincentt du Vigneaud achieved the first chemical synthesis of peptide drugs. 1963: Dr. Robert Bruce Merifield, an American biochemist, invented the solid-phase peptide synthesis method, which opened a new page for the artificial synthesis of peptides. 1980: The advent of recombinant technology enabled the production of larger molecules of peptides. Late 1980s: The first copper peptide with wound-healing therapeutic activity (GHK-Cu) was incorporated into skin care products; At present, the peptide market is constantly expanding and developing.
Classification of peptides

According to the mechanism of action, it can be divided into:

Signal peptide:

A peptide stimulates skin fibroblasts and increases the production of collagen and elastic fibers. As a messenger, it triggers the synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts. For example, palmitoyl oligopeptides are binding of elastin derived peptides to cytoplasmic fibroblast receptors.

Carrier peptide:

Responsible for the transport and stabilization of oligomeric elements such as copper and manganese, carried to the skin, allowing uptake by epithelial cells. In addition, these peptides stimulate the action of key enzymes.

Neurotransmitter inhibitory peptides:

Developed to mimic botulinum toxin and prevent acetylcholine release at the neuromuscular junction. Such as acetyl hexapeptide-3, pentapeptide-18 and so on.

Peptides in cosmetics

The first peptides were added to skin care products in the 1980s and have been increasingly used for skin anti-aging since 2000. At present, many well-known brands have launched peptide cosmetics. Such as Olay, Estee Lauder, Estee Lauder, etc. SK-II et al. Several internal factors (such as time aging) and external factors (such as environmental contamination and photoaging) are associated with skin aging. These internal and external factors lead to dermal extracellular matrix collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, antimicrobial function, skin barrier function, oxidative stress, and inflammatory processes. It then causes dermatitis, acne, eczema, vasculitis, psoriasis, and skin cancer.

Bioactive peptides play an important role in cosmetics with activities that inhibit skin enzymes, antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, thereby improving skin health and maintaining skin stability.